Consider the possibility of being guarded by hundreds of Stone Age tribesmen all smeared up in pig grease and soot brandishing their arrows, spears, and axes in your direction while they howl their war chants. Something that is not up your alley isn't it? Here, you are witnessing the annual Highlands Show of Papua New Guinea.
In terms of the location of Papua New Guinea, it is situated in between and the equator, it is comprised of small islands from the Bismarck Archipelago and the eastern half of the large island it shares with Indonesia. In terms of independence and nationhood, this happened in 1975 but before this occasion there were Papua and New Guinea that were under the management of considering various United Nations trust arrangements. In this country, there are still some parts which are unaware of the western way of life.
White men traveling on foot were the first to explore these rugged Highlands in the 1930s. The white man is still a novelty, and at the Highlands Show the center of attention is often the camera toting tourist as much as the armed and painted warrior. Held alternately in the towns of Goroka and Mount Hagen, this two day show is attended by about 60,000 people at a time and most of the attendees are Papua New Guineans. In order for some of them to participate in the festivities, there are people who walk all the way from Telefomin, Wapenamanda, and Ukarumpa.
Aside from the usual agricultural and crafts exhibits being staged there are also demonstrations for house building or fire making. Another part of the show is light entertainment. Clutching their weapons, the barefoot competitors engage in bicycle races, chasing after a greased pig, and racing up a greased pole with cigarettes and beer dangling way up top. In terms of the climax of the weekend, the tribes display to tourists and locals their treasured ceremonial attire during the sing sing competition.
Regardless of the scorching heat, people dance and chant to the deep hollow beat of the kundu drum as the pace changes to simulate a battle or stage a legend form tribal history. The kaleidoscope of color and costume makes the Highlands sing a spectacular feast for the eyes. The decorations used by the dancers are amazing. They cover their bodies in the darkest soot and their faces in red and blue ochre and for the trimmings they use store bought crepe paper, leaves, beads, and feathers. Earrings are made from safety pins and for their pierced septums what they use are ball point pens and even a piece of an automobile engine rather than the usual pig's tusk or other bone.
Not only are the village heirlooms unwrapped here but also displayed. Normally, children will wear their headpieces made from the fur of the spotted cuscus, a small marsupial, with pride. Because seashells were once a form of currency, people still give them much value. Some people are lucky enough to witness the tall swaying plumes of the cassowary and of the peacock like Raggiana Bird of Paradise which is the national symbol.
Another thing to see are the eerie Asaro mudmen. They cover themselves in white mud and then wear grotesque heads fabricated from sun baked clay and straw. The dance a swaying dance and slap leaves off their thighs. A legend says that one tribe retreated into the Asaro River when they were pursued by their enemies.
After they emerged covered in the white clay, their enemies fled thinking that they were ghouls. To commemorate this victory, the Asaro mudmen continue to cover themselves in the same river mud. Awarded are prizes in cash as well as cattle after all the sing sings to the groups who were the best in their costumes and to those who gave the best presentations. The trek downhill begins for the people after everything is said and done.
